London Fashion Week: Ann-Sofie Back
We were very excited about the Ann-Sofie Back show which was held in the minimal settings at the Topshop Venue in Bloomsbury Square. Models came out to a very rock soundtrack with Ann-Sofie Back’s trademark deceptively simple tailoring evident in wide-leg trousers and skirts. Waistbands were fitted at the back but left without darts at the front and fastened with simple tabs for a sculptural feel. The more regularly tailored trousers and skirt had extra long darts creating an elongated hipline. What looked like sunglasses lenses were used as oversized sequins to great effect on dresses, capes and tops.
Square toed shoes reminded me of office wear circa 1995, and the palette of predominantly grey black and pink reinforced this and made me wonder if this was intentional on Back’s part.
Shoulder pads were the other device used in the show, they cropped up on knees, buttocks and breasts as well as their more usual placing on the shoulder. Back also upended them and used to create armour-like height at the arms. On the whole they were used thoughtfully and cleverly but were used so much it felt slightly gimmicky.
